Rivera is one of the most important wineries in northern Puglia, and a number of years ago I was fortunate enough to be invited to a vertical of Il Falcone, the ageworthy red wine they made (and make) with the finest of their red grapes, the bulk of which were at one time instead destined to making rosato, which has always been popular in Puglia and rightly so.
It was a memorable occasion, and this year they very kindly sent me their new releases, which include a Fiano I do not recall having tasted before. With wines like these it is best to cut to the quick and discuss them:
Rivera Scariazza Fiano Puglia IGT 2010
Lot 14330
Brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections. the bouquet is powerful, with rich savory butterscotch supported by gunflint and lemony fruit with fairly intense bitter undertones and nice minerality. Considerable power, but with restraint. On the palate it’s ample, and quite savory, with considerable mineral laced citric fruit supported by a certain languid fullness derived from glycerin (I think) and abundant sea salt that leads into a long savory finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with elegant roasted or grilled fish, and is also a wine that will age nicely for at least 3-5 years. As a general rule I prefer Fiano that’s unoaked, because oak tends to mask some of the varietal characteristics, but I am not objecting here.
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