Classified Wines visits Paul Autard in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
That’s Austin wine professional Chris McFall, wine buyer at Paggi House, examining some old vines.
From left, André Clouet, Chris McFall, Billy Caruso, and Scott Ota.
Above: Jean-Noël’s daughter, Caroline Lestimé. Image via Chassagne-Montrachet.com.
The village of Chassagne-Montrachet is, amongst others, Gagnard country.
A daughter of the owner of Domaine Delagrange-Bachelet married Jacques Gagnard to form Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange. The brother of Jacques Gagnard, Jean-Noël, also had his own domaine of Jean-Noël Gagnard. The two daughters from the Gagnard-Delagrange operation married a Blain and a Fontaine, hence, Domaines Blain-Gagnard and Fontaine-Gagnard. It is the burgundian way.
Jean-Noël is now well into his retirement, but still finds plenty enough to do, to warrant slipping into his boiler-suit and heading into the cellar. He inherited his domaine from his parents in 1960, when the vines were split between him and his brother Jacques. Jean-Noël made several vineyard acquisitions and also began domaine bottling – the fruits of the domaine’s labour were previously sold to the négoce.
Since 1989, Jean-Noël’s daughter, Caroline Lestimé took over day-to-day running of the domaine. Caroline had studied business in Paris, and for the first year she divided her attentions between managing the commercial aspects of the estate while attending the Beaune Lycée Viticole to learn about viticulture, and Dijon University to learn about oenology. One of her early changes was to increase the number of white wine cuvées since her father’s time by introducing a terroir-based policy of separating-out the different vineyards where wines were previously amalgamated under, for instance, a bigger Morgeots cuvée. The domaine now commercialises 9 hectares of vines; one grand cru, 9 white and 2 red Chassagne-Montrachet 1ers and a Santenay 1er Clos Tavannes red. Villages and Hautes-Côtes de Beaune are also included.
Text via Burgundy-Report.com.
Above: Patrick Bize (left, image via Wine Terroirs).
From the Simon Bize website:
The domaine’s history begins in 1880 in Savigny les Beaune. Since then, the following generations have each contributed their hard work and knowledge to the development of the domaine.
1880, Great Grandfather Simon Bize owns a few vines; it was a difficult time in the viticultural world where all work was done by hand.
1918, Grandfather Simon Bize takes over and is able to purchases some new parcels. Horses and the arrival of new agricultural materials make vineyard work less difficult.
1950, Father Simon Bize is instrumental in the transformation of the domaine. An excellent winemaker, he decides to market his own wines, believing in the personal relationship between ‘winemaker and consumer’. His know-how allows him to establish a network of private customers and restaurants. The quality of his wines is recognized and appreciated by wine connoisseurs.
1972, Patrick Bize accomplishes his father’s projects. He builds a vinification facility (cuverie), expands the cellars and purchases new parcels, permitting him to propose an extended range of wine to the public.
Throughout the domaine’s history priority has always been placed on wine quality; the utmost care and attention focuses on vineyard work and winemaking.
Today the domaine is composed of 22 hectares (52.8 acres) and the future looks bright. Where will we be in 50 years?
See also this profile by the Wine Doctor (highly recommended).
Above: Coralie and Benoit Ente (image via VinTerroirVigneron.com).
Côte de Beaune
8.87 acres (3.59 ha)
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Aligote
“Benoit Ente is not afraid of change. He began (in 1999) to practice vinification with a healthy helping of batonnage until he decided that he was more excited by producing balanced wines than making the big white ‘splash’. He is very concerned by the effect of using maximum authorized yields for chardonnay and has begun (by debudding) to keep his yields extremely low. This is a courageous decision. There is a great difference between 2002, 2003, and the 2004 vintage. The minerality shines through in his 2004s, and he has bottled a number of magnums. We have high hopes for the domaine as good Pulignys are a rare commodity.”
See also this profile by A Wine to Try.
Image via Intrepid Wino Tastings.
In the words of Burgundy authority John Winthrop of Veritas Imports in California, “Ben Leroux, it is whispered in reverent tones, may well succeed to the mantle of Henri Jayer as Burgundy’s emblematic winemaker.”
Allen Meadows has called him “extremely thoughtful… positively brilliant… one of, if not the, most gifted young winemaker in all of Burgundy.”
Much has been written about this rising star of Burgundy.
Here are some of the most informative posts: