Maison Camille Giroud

House website (in progress).

Tasting notes on Burgundy Report (includes recent tastings).

Jockovino profile (highly recommended).

camille giroud

Image via Jockovino.

From the Becky Wasserman website:

The company was founded in 1865 by a fellow whose ancestors had emigrated to Switzerland during the Huguenot persecutions. He returned to France and married a Burgundian lady of property. Camille Giroud took up residence at its present address in the late 1890s.

We first encountered the Giroud family in 1988 and were impressed by the number of older bottles slumbering in the cellars. One of the last of the small negoçiants specializing in “vins de garde”, Bourgogne Rouges that need ten to fifteen years to mature. Wonderful oddities such as a 1959 Poully- Fuissé that had evidently never undergone malolactic fermentation… 1947 Cortons, deep red in colour and still vigorous.

We met Lucien Giroud, successor to the venerable Camille, who underlined the importance of tannins for longevity. When Lucien died, the two Giroud brothers became the managers and decided to break from the past and construct a winery in order to vinify. To purchase grapes as well as continue the family tradition of purchasing finished wines.

The nineties were years of discovery for the Girouds as well as experimentation.

Unfortunately, the company did not have the required capital and in 2002 an American group headed by Joe Wender and Ann Colgin purchased Camille Giroud. The job of winemaker, now régisseur, was given to David Croix who arrived with a stellar recommendation from Benjamin Leroux of the Domaine du Clos des Epeneaux.

What is fascinating about the company is the presence of three generations of Burgundian viticultural history. Lucien, president from 1942 through 1989, believed that Burgundies must be properly aged. He favoured appellations such as the tougher Nuits St. Georges premiers crus. He adored vintages such as 1976 and 1988. Lucien’s wines illustrate his era. The brothers tried all the vinification techniques of the nineties, batonnage of reds as well as whites yet the respect for the Giroud style is still evident.

David Croix is representative of his generation: clarity of terroir rather than a house style, and an intuitive feeling for both appellations and the nature of individual vintages. The press has been very kind to Camille Giroud and their wines have been well noted in two major publications: “Recommended Red Burgundies 2002 and 2003,” Wine Spectator; “30 Recommended Reds 2003,” Decanter Magazine. In addition, David received extremely positive reviews from Allen Meadows (Burghound.com), Bill Nanson (Burgundy-Report.com), and elicited the following statement from Clive Coates: “Here the genius is the 26 year old David Croix.”

Becky Wasserman

Bonneau du Martray, Burgundy’s only exclusively Grand Cru domaine

Winery website.

Burgundy Report on Bonneau du Martray.

Jocovino post on Bonneau du Martray (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED).

bonneau du martray

Image via WineHog.

From the Wiki:

Bonneau du Martray is a French wine grower and producer based in Pernand-Vergelesses, in the Côte de Beaune wine-growing region of Burgundy, France. Bonneau du Martray is the only estate in Burgundy to exclusively produce wine from Grand cru vineyards.

The estate is currently owned and managed by Jean-Charles de la Moriniere who inherited it from his father in 1994. Jean-Charles has been working on moving viticultural management and the care of the vineyard toward a biodynamic philosophy and away from the previous use of herbicides to manage weeds and pests. He has also worked to reduce yields significantly in an effort to improve the intensity and quality of the finished wine.

Only two wines are produced from the vineyard holdings of the domaine. A White Burgundy with Chardonnay grapes from the 9.5 hectares the estate owns in Corton-Charlemagne and a Red Burgundy with Pinot Noir grapes from 1.5 hectares owned in the Corton vineyard. Bonneau du Martray is the largest single owner of vines within the Corton-Charlemagne vineyard and owns the largest area of a single Grand cru vineyard of any producer in Burgundy.

Clive Coates describes Bonneau Du Martray’s white Corton-Charlemagne wine as “one of the very greatest in all Burgundy” and Hugh Johnson lists Bonneau du Martray as one of the leading Côte d’Or producers and gives the estate his highest rating of 4 stars indicating “exceptionally fine or great quality, consistent over many vintages”.

“Nicolas Rossignol has a firm grip on Volnay and Pommard”

nicolas rossignol

Image via GazzarVins.

Winery website.

From Bergman’s Bourgogne:

Nicolas Rossignol has a firm grip on Volnay and Pommard, the two villages just south of Beaune. There are few cellars in Burgundy where you can taste seven Volnay premier crus and eight Pommard premier crus. In addition to these there is also a handful of village wines from both villages. Instead of blending the small parcels and just label it Volnay premier cru Nicolas Rossignol prefers to bottle everything separately.

“Friends ask me why I make so many different premier crus,” says Nicolas Rossignol. “By making many different wines you learn more, and you learn quicker. Experiences from one wine can be used for another. I find it interesting to have 30 different wines.”

Click here to continue reading…

More suggested reading by Paul M. Young.

Great interview with Olivier Lamy of Hubert Lamy by Bergman’s Bourgogne

hubert lamy

Image via StudioDH.

“We haven’t invented anything,” says Olivier Lamy of Domaine Hubert Lamy to leading Burgundy expert Ola Bergman. “When you read what old monks wrote about winemaking you realise not much has happened since.”

Click here to read the fascinating interview.